Rather than heading straight for Marrakesh, the coastal town of Essaouira is a wonderful Moroccan destination welcoming visitors with open arms, although it remains very much unspoilt. Many people visit Essaouira for the wind, locally known as the altzee. Making the beach attractive to windsurfers and kite-surfers, this is a paradise for those craving watersport fun. You can also spend hours by the sea watching the fishermen, taking note of what you might be eating later that evening. The town itself is bursting with whitewashed houses and the Medina is a real crowd-pleaser. Its craft shops and art galleries attract people from all over the world, including many world-famous celebrities. It's fascinating to watch as stallholders in the souks arrange their fezzes, handbags and woodwork, for which Essaouira is celebrated for. Visit in late June for the world-renowned Gnaoua Music Festival showcasing jazz, pop and rock music from all over the world. ?